
Ever get the feeling that the whole world’s privy to a joke you just don’t get? That sort of approximates my life in the sprawl of Kinshasa. For the next year or so, my wife Anne-Claire and I will call this notorious behemoth of a failed state home. I couldn’t be happier – to live in Africa again and sate a childhood fascination with the continent; to find stories to tell that no one else can; and to learn French. My current lack of fluency, in addition to many other aspects of life here, has me in a near-constant state of bewilderment.
I accompany my fluent-in-French wife to work every day and desperately try to follow what’s going on. As she deftly navigates a barrage of bilingual situations, I peck at adding something more useful than “OK, d’accord” or “Oui, ça c’est bon” to conversations. Meanwhile, my wife has charmed the local staff by learning a few phrases in Lingala. Heartened by her results, every once in a while, I get up the courage to start a conversation in French with one of the local staff, often going something like this:






