
Look, nobody *likes* gluten-free food. It’s a necessary evil for some, and there’s a whole conversation about how many people actually need to be eating it. Which I am absolutely swerving here today! Instead, today I’m going to tell you about the scientists who were so desperate to create edible gluten-free baked goods that they electrocuted their dough like it was Frankenstein’s monster.
Bread is apparently the most difficult food to make without gluten. You may have had experiences with GF breadstuffs, but if not, let the people of LWON tell you. “I have eaten gluten-free muffins twice,” says Ann. “The first time because they had stuff in them that I liked, the second time because I couldn’t believe they would be that bad. But they were. They really are not food, they are muffin-shaped despair.” Okay so muffins are out, but what about bread? “I don’t have the emotional bandwidth to try any other gluten free food.”
“I have tried gluten-free bread,” volunteers Jennifer. “No taste, texture all wrong, sand and rubble wrapped in a hand towel, nothing really good about it.”
“Gluten-free bread is super good in relation to eating cardboard,” says Erik, a self-described “glutard” (their word, not mine). “But it’s not so good when compared to actual bread.” This may explain why, he says, “we glutards swap our favorite bread brands like rare baseball cards. Because deep down we are all under the delusion that we might find one that doesn’t suck.”
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Under institutional lighting, the chopped chicken in BBQ sauce is like oily pet food on a doughy white bun, and its juice runs into the glistening orange fruit from a can and the scoop of too-sweet slaw that nobody ordered. The woman across the table, Linda, who has a Scottish accent and is a low talker, admits she has “episodes” of not remembering, then she has one, right then, loses her train of thought while talking about losing her trains of thought. She is so tragically lonely. And there is Lynette, most of her teeth gone, Chicago Bears sweatshirt too tight and deeply stained. She has such a big smile, is chatty, loud, kind. She forks up the food, no qualms.




