Nature Poetry: Heron Suite

Illustration of a heron flying through a twilit pink and purple sky

Note: This post is best read on a computer screen, but a phone’ll still work.

One day last year, my friend Tonya messaged our group chat with a lovely update: a heron had landed in front of their house to eat a fish. The rest of us were enchanted by the thought of it, but none more so than Tye, who’d misread the message and thought the heron had laughed, not landed, in Tonya’s yard.

An even better image, we agreed. “A heron laughed in my yard,” Tonya said. “Now everyone complete that poem.”

I did.

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A Sevenmile Stream Story

This post first ran last January, but it’s just as relevant now.

Years ago, Carol Evans, then a Bureau of Land Management biologist in northeastern Nevada, told me she wanted to write a book called Stream Stories — a series of vignettes about the many creeks that webbed her region and defined her career. I have no idea if she’s working on this today (Carol, if you’re reading this, I hope you are!), but it always struck me as a brilliant premise. Streams and narratives have much in common: they flow between points yet never truly end, they are subject to the forces of history yet shape it themselves. And they both have protagonists — in the streams’ case, the living beings who dwell within them and, in some cases, sculpt their physical form.

Here, then, is my stab at a brief stream story, featuring a waterway called Sevenmile Creek. And, like so many good stream stories, it co-stars beavers.

Sevenmile Creek runs down a shoulder of scraggly pinyon-juniper forest that looms above Buena Vista, Colorado, a town on the banks of the Arkansas River. For the last several years, Sevenmile’s flow has been diminishing, for reasons that aren’t entirely clear — drought, perhaps, or some subtle change in hydrology or land use. Regardless, the dwindling water has spelled trouble for its resident beavers, which, though capable of transforming even the thinnest streams into robust ponds, can’t conjure water from thin air. 

One January morning, I paid Sevenmile’s beavers a visit with Mark Beardsley, Cat Beardsley, and Jessica Doran, three beaver aficionados who restore Colorado streams under the banner of a company called EcoMetrics. We walked a couple of miles down one of the gazillion rutted dirt roads that cuts across public land in this corner of Colorado, our dogs weaving around our ankles. Distant coyotes yipped and wailed. 

When the road reached Sevenmile Creek, we found it had gone virtually dry. A stranded beaver lodge, its normally submerged entrances yawning like cave mouths, stood in a damp meadow, the crumbling ruins of an ancient kingdom. I felt a twinge of foreboding. 

A little higher up, a colony of beavers was still hanging on, but barely. Behind the long berm of their dam, a frozen pond, no larger than a pickleball court, was tucked against a sheer rock face. Stains high on the granite wall revealed where the fast-disappearing water had stood months earlier. The shrinking, iced-over pond was nearly solid, locking into place the beavers’ food cache, the bundle of willow stems they’d spent the autumn assembling into place. Only one narrow aperture of open water, roughly the diameter of a five-gallon bucket, lapped against the rock: the colony’s single point of egress from its now-frozen stronghold. 

Beavers, of course, are well-adapted to winter; ordinarily they spend the chilly months feeding and frolicking beneath an ice roof as happily as Arctic seals. But this situation seemed abnormal, and perilous. Their stream had all but dried up, their food stores had frozen solid, and their pond was vanishing almost in real time. The beavers always had the option of leaving, that was true. But, since the stream only held sporadic pockets of water, that would mean waddling long stretches overland — not a semiaquatic mammal’s preferred mode of travel. And there were those howling coyotes to worry about. 

“I thought they’d high-tail it out of here when it got really bad,” Mark said as we surveyed the scene from atop a bluff. “But once they settle in, they’re like, no, this is home, man.”

“It’s so grim. Do you guys wake up in the middle of the night worried about ‘em?” Jess said.

“A little bit,” Mark acknowledged.

A week earlier, Mark and Cat had visited the colony and delivered a bundle of carrots, a food that captive beavers generally adore. But the veggies still sat untouched on the ice. (Maybe an encouraging sign that the critters weren’t actively starving?) They’d also spotted an adult beaver popping from the airhole to feed on what little willow wasn’t sealed into the ice. “He would stick his head out, grab one of those branches, and tug it under,” Cat said. 

Today the beaver was nowhere to be seen, though we heard the occasional hollow clunk of a portly rodent body moving around beneath the ice, and saw disturbed water rippling in the breathing hole. When we held our breath and the wind quieted, we could also hear the distant squealing and moaning of the kits, the babies, rising from some hidden burrow. It was hard not to interpret their calls as cries for help.

***

What, if any, is the moral of this particular stream story? It’s hard not to see it as an Anthropocene parable: the climate is changing, once-reliable resources are becoming ephemeral, our wild brethren are suffering, etc. And writ large, all of that is certainly true. 

But I’m also not certain that this evergreen lesson applies to Sevenmile Creek. Beaver literature is rife with analogous stories, in which smart observers become convinced that winter will spell doom for a favorite colony. The Colorado naturalist Enos Mills, in his 1913 masterpiece In Beaver World, described monitoring a beaver lodge whose sole occupant had been sealed in by ice during a cold snap. When Mills and a friend broke through the lodge’s walls and crawled inside, they found the beaver was successfully weathering the harsh conditions. “(H)e had subsisted on the wood and the bark of some green sticks which had been built into an addition of the house during the autumn,” Mills reported. Nevertheless, Mills, convinced the beaver looked “emaciated,” brought him regular deliveries of aspen for the next six weeks; eventually the pond thawed, and “again the old fellow emerged into the water.” 

Mills seemed to believe he’d saved the beaver’s life, and maybe he had; surely the critter appreciated the gifts. To me, though, it sounds like the beaver had fared just fine through his own innate intelligence and resourcefulness.

Or consider the author Hope Ryden, whose 1989 book Lily Pond did so much to endear beavers to the public. One fall, Ryden began to fret that her local colony, in which she’d invested so much time and love, hadn’t adequately prepared for the winter. “I had to conclude that their winter food larder left much to be desired,” she wrote, surveying their pitiful bushel of blueberry and mountain laurel. “Would they survive on such stuff? Why hadn’t they moved?” Like Mills before her, she delivered them aspen branches, doubtful they’d survive without help. “We’ve brought you Christmas dinner,” she told them upon dropping off one load.

Come spring, though, Ryden realized she needn’t have bothered: 

“(I) made a surprising discovery. The shoreline was littered with hundreds of blackened lily rhizomes, refuse that had washed up after ice-out. And each one of these had been partially eaten. So that was how the beavers had made it through winter! I examined dozens of the long fibrous roots, broke them apart and looked at their insides. They had the consistency of raw potatoes. Clearly, the beavers had dug these swamp roots from the bottom muck and been sustained by them throughout their long imprisonment. So our donation of aspen branches had not been necessary after all!”

The urge to worry about beavers, and even to intervene on their behalf, is obviously a common one, and perfectly understandable — we feed birds in winter, why not beavers? And many surely do die every winter, of starvation or predation or exposure; it’s obviously a perilous season for any creature. Yet Castor canadensis is also a flexible, clever species; beavers possess survival strategies and techniques, honed over millions of years of evolution, that we may fail to comprehend or credit. As the beaver-watcher Bob Arnebeck put it in one blog post about Lily Pond: “I always assume that beavers know their business better than I.”

So where does that leave the Sevenmile Creek stream story? Like sagas and streams, it rolls on. The Sevenmile beavers may well be in dire trouble, as they appear to be; when we visit them later this winter, we might find them gone, or dead. Bringing them carrots and cottonwood branches is, in my view, entirely justifiable and compassionate, given all the ways in which we’ve made their lives harder over the last several centuries; as Jess put it to me later, “Why not help a neighbor out?” But it’s also conceivable that they’ll find a way even without us, as they’re wont to do, drawing upon secret reserves of guile and creativity and preparedness. This particular stream story may yet have a happy ending.  

They have, after all, endured this long. “I figured they’d either move out or croak,” Mark said as we meandered back down the road and left the beavers to their own devices. “Well, they’re still kicking.”

Photos: the Sevenmile beaver pond and one of its occupants, courtesy of Mark Beardsley.

Winter Sunsets Are the Best Sunsets

This post began with a question from my dear friend, the novelist and documentary filmmaker George Lerner. 

Looking over two years of footage from South Texas, I noticed something striking: I have lots and lots of glorious images filmed around sunset, but scant few decent shots at sunrise. Why is this, I wondered — is there a difference from an optical or geophysical perspective between sunset and sunrise?

George copied me on this question he sent to my dad, who has taught atmospheric physics. (How the three of us became close like family is a story for another day.) 

I had a knee-jerk answer to George’s question: the reason that sunsets are more amazing than sunrises is that you just see a hell of a lot more of them. So I chuckled to myself when I saw that Dad’s reply to George began, “I try to avoid the early morning hours so I do not see many sunrises.” (Neither of us are morning people.)

But it turns out that there’s more to it than just selection bias. There are scientific reasons that sunsets might be more scenic than sunrises. 

Dad writes:

Generally speaking, the air in the morning is more stable and less polluted with particles that scatter light. Also the atmosphere heats up during the day and there is vertical movement of air which contributes to the formation of cumulus clouds that make for a better visual view of the setting Sun.

There’s some truth to that old saying, “Red sky at night, sailor’s delight; red sky in morning, sailors take warning.” “Those spectrally pure colors are telling you there’s a sizable swath of clear air off to your west that’s likely to be over you the next day,” National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) meteorologist Stephen Corfidi told National Geographic.

It’s now possible to look up your sunrise and sunset forecast. SunsetWx provides predictions for sunrises and sunsets. Here’s how they describe their methodology

We quickly realized that some things were more important than others, and decided on a weighting scheme. After many trial runs and verifications, we weighted moisture the most…Pressure, as well as the change in pressure over time was the next highest weighted factor as it helps recognize areas where cloud cover may dominate as well as FROPA’s. Finally, we included general cloud cover, to better account for regions where it is overcast, and help the model display it that way.

SunsetWx gives the highest weight to high clouds, and consider them necessary for a “vivid” sunset. Any place that has close to 100 percent cloud cover or is predicted to have precipitation during sunset (or sunrise) gets a “poor” rating.

One thing I’ve noticed over the years is that winter sunsets are especially amazing. I wondered if I thought that partly because I live in a place that’s surrounded by mountains, and the alpenglow on snowy peaks is hard to beat. But I’m not imagining it, according to Stephen F. Corfidi at NOAA’s  Storm Prediction Center, fall and winter really do produce the most spectacular sunsets. His explainer is worth reading in full.

The takeaway is that if you’re seeking a spectacular display of light, sunsets are a better bet than sunrises and fall and winter are the best seasons. So if you’re living in the northern hemisphere, go out and enjoy peak sunset season! 

*This piece first ran on February 26, 2021


Image: sunset over the ski trails at County Line on Grand Mesa by Christie Aschwanden

Snapshot: A Walk in Our Nation’s Capital

I do government-adjacent work, so Friday afternoon I went out the front door to walk off my feelings and decided to turn right.

As I neared the U.S. Capitol building, I started seeing people with going-home-from-a-protest energy (small groups, cheerful, heading away from major government buildings) and gangs of Architect of the Capitol staff cleaning up trash from the wide sidewalks.

As I walked down one of those sidewalks, another woman, also alone, coming the other way, started to trend toward me in a way that people do when they’re not going to follow social conventions about strangers. She looked cold and tired. I put my head down and studiously ignored. “Are you pro-life?” she called. As I passed: “Oh, you don’t like women having control over their own bodies? How pathetic!”

Ah, right. It was that day in January, every year, when a bunch of people show up to be mad about Roe v. Wade. They won, but I guess they’re still showing up. And I guess that lady is still showing up to yell at them about it.

I do like having control over my own body, while it lasts, and I walked that body on toward the sunset and then back on home.

Photo: Helen Fields, obviously

What Would I Save?

With California once again burning, I keep wondering, if those fires were coming our way, what would I save?

I remember my cousin who, years ago, lost her house during a summer of flames; she’d been away from home when it burned, so there was no frantic effort to stuff the car with keepsakes. After everything had cooled she was allowed to return to the property; in a Hazmat suit she sat in the ashes, sifting through in search of jewelry and anything else that might have survived (an image that has stayed with me ever since). Nothing had, except the beautiful view of the mountains that she had once enjoyed every day. The vast art collection, many of them family pieces, was gone. Jewels, both real and fake, gone. The music, so much music, was gone. (She was a radio personality and had a studio at home with a roomful of curated CDs, many of them given to her and signed by the artists.) There was no sign of our grandmother’s blue Wedgewood china, nor a no-doubt impressive collection of family photos, many of them captured and developed the old-fashioned way and, therefore, gone for good. Her chickens squawking in their coop…I can’t let myself think about them. They, and those other things, I’m sure, are some of the things she would have pulled out if she could have.

At the time I sent her a care package of random stuff—some clothes of my mom’s that might fit her height, a teapot, a few odds and ends, something to help her get through. It felt like nothing, but she had nothing. I’ve thought about that a lot, both the nothing and the something.

We’re fortunate not to have a fire problem here, at least not yet. But I look around and wonder, what’s worth the effort? What could I let burn?

Not to be flip about the horrendous experience a house fire must be, but it’s an exercise worth doing. We are a culture of stuff, and I’ve heard people say after losing everything they realized how little of it was meaningful. But the things that are? Those mean a lot.

So, I started working on a list, just in case. Never mind that transporting large paintings out of harm’s way would be a logistical nightmare. As I work on the list I wonder if it might help me pare down, help me make choices now. Clutter is exhausting with real effects on our mental health: it can make it hard to think clearly, it can steal our attention away from other things. It can cause strife and self-loathing. More on the physiological side, there’s a phenomenon called “visual crowding” that happens when clutter muddles how we take in and process information at the edges of our vision.

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Escaping the Flames


I had tickets to fly to LA at the end of the week for mountain lion research where I’d meet with wildlife biologists, follow cats in the Santa Monica mountains by radio collar telemetry, and take a tour of the nearly complete Wallis Annenberg Wildlife Crossing over the 101. That plan went out the window with these horrific fires. Contacts dropped out to deal with on the ground emergencies and I quickly found that couches I’d been hoping to sleep on were already taken. None of the collared cats were caught in the fires, but their already fragmented urban-edge habitats are further fractured and reduced. 

For a manuscript I’m writing on mountain lions, this is a week I can’t afford to lose. I changed flights to Miami where another marginal population lives in southern Florida. In the Southeast they are called panthers, same species as the ones in LA, as the ones that still exist anywhere in the Americas. Unlike the cats of LA who get infusions of genes from surrounding mountain ranges in Mexico and the US, panthers in Florida are completely isolated. Fifty years ago they were down to between ten and thirty individuals living in the swamplands and savanna grasses of the southern part of the state. They are now up to a couple hundred, still located in the bottom of the sock of Florida, still dangerously endangered, and still more isolated than any other Puma concolor population in the world.

Meanwhile in LA, mountain lions are taking it hard, pushed out by fires, killed frequently while crossing interstates. Those with collars respond to fires by being out more during the day with nocturnal habits upended. Their patterns change as territories are reorganized and new ground is explored, which includes unfamiliar streets and backyards. Cats that got out of the way of fires have to keep going. 

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Forest gardens are the coolest gardens

I could never hack it as a farmer, and the thought of living as a hunter-gatherer evokes for me the feeling of being locked out of your house. But in the ancient and abandoned indigenous villages on the coast of British Columbia, there was a mode of food cultivation that really strikes a chord with me: the forest garden.

Next to archeological village sites that, until 150 years ago, were continuously occupied for at least 2,000 years, paleobotanist Chelsey Geralda Armstrong and others have found patches of forest where the plants were transplanted from distant sites and selectively managed.

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Orchid Care for the Uncertain

I wrote this post in 2019, when I was feeling prickly and uncertain–not too different than how I’m feeling these days. We do have a few more orchids now, although I still am not quite sure how to care for them.

*

I wake up this morning on the prickly side—or at least, I’m prickly once I look at my phone. There are a series of misunderstood texts, frail disjointed things that have good intentions but poor phrasing, or lack the perfect emoji.

My phone is sitting right next to an orchid. It’s a new type of orchid for me—a miltonia, with narrow leaves that point upward and a sweet, pansy-like flower. But now the orchid’s flowers have withered and some of its leaves are yellowing. It may be getting too much light. It may be getting too much water, or not enough.

I thought I was doing so well with my orchids. We had received several plants as gifts; a few months ago, I decided I needed to start taking better care of the plants if I ever wanted them to flower again. I bought pots with holes to let their roots breathe. I researched the right potting mix, I unwound roots that had grown soggy. There is now a special spray bottle that I take around the house to give them a tropical misting.

The ones I’ve re-potted have been growing new leaves. But this morning, the straw-colored tips of the miltonia leaves reminded me that I must keep taking care of things, keep learning how to take care in new ways.

Sometimes taking care of things makes me exhausted. That’s was the problem with all of those texts. And then my middle son wakes up prickly because we are going to church. We don’t even go to church unless we’re visiting a grandmother or, some years, on Christmas Eve. We’ve been talking about Martin Luther King Jr. Day and we don’t really have a tradition to celebrate it, I tell him. Maybe going to church will be a way to do that.

He cries.

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