This post first ran on Dec. 31, 2010, though with a different main image, and it has run just about every New Year’s Eve since then. Back in the day, the lead image was a close-up of the crown of the 2009 pole. That image still appears as part of this essay, only farther down. Instead, the new image at the top of this post is a photo of me at the Pole resting my hand on the crown of the pole. I made the substitution after this photo resurfaced on a long-forgotten roll of film. Yes: “roll of film.” Hence, above, the funky contrast, the inconsistent tint, the overall granularity, etc. (Also, as has become customary, I’ve changed the dates in this year’s post to keep it current.)
By the time you’re reading this post, 2024 will have already arrived at the South Pole. Even if you’re reading it the instant it pops up on the Internet, at 7 a.m. EST December 31, 2023, the New Year will already be an hour old. Unless, of course, you happen to be obsessively refreshing your LWON bookmark from the Line Islands (pop. ~ 8,000), the easternmost atolls in the Republic of Kiribati, or from the Chatham Islands (pop. 730), a New Zealand archipelago not only way off the southeastern coast of the mainland but in a time zone all its own (and how cool is that?).
You don’t have to go to the South Pole to appreciate how arbitrary our conceptions of space and time are, but it helps. And fifteen years ago today (tomorrow? yesterday?) I found myself, thanks to a grant from the National Science Foundation to support research for a book, at the Pole.
By “at the Pole,” I don’t mean just at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, the modern and rather posh living quarters for the approximately 200 scientists and support personnel who work there during the October-to-February austral summer, as well as the 50 or so who keep the place running for the rest of the year.
Nor do I mean the various outposts within walking distance where scientists conduct research in astronomy, geology, particle physics, climatology, and other areas.
And I don’t mean the ceremonial South Pole, the striped-barbershop photo-op version, semi-encircled by the flags of the twelve nations that signed the 1961 treaty setting aside the continent for scientific pursuits.
I mean at the Pole.
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