Look up

Credit: Katharine Andrews

On May 10, I leave my house in northern Washington state just after dawn. I drive alone along a braided river, over sagebrush plateaus, and through fields of golden flowers. Then one plane across the Cascades, and another across the Rockies, to finally land in my my childhood home in Colorado. I’ve come to stand alongside my dad as we observe the passing of his sister, my aunt. My oldest sister has come from Wisconsin; another cousin, from New York. There are cousins and an uncle and aunt in Denver; my mom and my brother and sister-in-law and nephew and niece in Boulder. Still others will gather on Zoom, to watch the service from a distance, because they can’t make the trip.

The night I arrive, I curl up in bed in the guest room at my parents’ house and scroll through news on my phone. I learn that a powerful solar storm is hurling great arcs of ions towards Earth, where they will cascade through the atmosphere in a light show that may be visible as far south as Florida and Alabama. The aurora borealis. It’s late, and I’m exhausted, but I pad into the living room to stand on the back of the couch and peer north through the high windows under the ceiling eave. Clouds and city lights blur the horizon, so I return to bed.

Should I? I wonder. I stare at the phone, then begin punching in every name I can think of back in the valley where I live. By the time I’m done, I have 28. I write a quick note, telling everyone to watch the sky. Maybe, being so much farther north, they will see what I can’t. Maybe they will pass the message on to others I didn’t think of, kicking off a sort of celestial phone tree that says simply, Look up. I pause again, fretting about how overwhelming a group text can be once replies start rolling in, and likes of replies, and replies to liked replies. Then, I hit send.

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Fruit dispersal, the wrong way

A lone red cherry on cracked asphalt

The other day I drove to the grocery store, opened the trunk to get out my shopping bags, and this cherry fell out.

At my boyfriend’s house, a couple of beautiful ornamental cherries overhang the parking area. And this little fruit availed itself of my 2012 Prius as a dispersal method.

I don’t think this was a very effective dispersal method. If the cherry had asked me, I would have recommended one of the birds or squirrels that roam around the branches; they at least might have dropped its pit onto some dirt.

On the other hand, my car did carry the cherry all the way out to the suburbs. It’s obviously not going to germinate in the Trader Joe’s parking lot, but the next rain – and we’ve had no shortage of rain in the mid-Atlantic this spring – could wash it downhill, a few hundred feet to the ravine where the Northwest Branch of the Anacostia River runs. That’s a good place for cherries – they bloom early in spring, explosions of pink and white among the tall gray trunks.

I was so taken with this hitchhiking drupe that not only did I not lock the car, but I failed to notice that I didn’t have my keys until I finished my shopping, got back to the car, and couldn’t find them in my purse or any of my pockets. So in addition to getting itself carried to the ‘burbs, this fruit could have gotten my car stolen. Huh.

Ok, cherry. You do you. You disperse any way you want. Thanks for choosing me as your ride.

Photo: Helen Fields, obviously

It is now safe to move about the cabin

Here’s a time capsule. I wrote this in 2011, before flying – along with everything else – felt like it was getting more dangerous. One thing I definitely don’t think we will ever experience again is the joy of flying on a mostly empty plane.

It’s not every day that a flight is delayed because there are too few people on board. But, blame Will and Kate, Brits just weren’t flying out of London last Friday. As a result, the Virgin Atlantic A340-600 called Ladybird was carrying only 112 of her usual 380 passengers.

So before we could take off, we had to play a little game of musical chairs. This was done to balance out the plane. Rows 37-40 were blocked off so no one could sit in them. A lady from a middle section was asked to move next to me over on the right side of the plane, and similar reconfigurations took place all over economy. (A flight attendant confirmed my suspicion that no Upper Class passengers were made to move from their pods.) Everyone was free to prowl around the cabin and claim the empty rows once we reached cruising altitude, but the seat distribution had to be exact for takeoff and landing.

The culprit? Turbulence. At cruising altitude, it’s no big deal: Planes can withstand rollercoaster altitude drops that leave their passengers banged up and surfing a sea of vomit. But at takeoff and landing, an unbalanced plane makes things dicey. It’s easier to navigate an empty or even an overweight plane through liftoff turbulence than to do the same for a sparsely populated plane.

To balance the plane, the crew tries to distribute the weight of the passengers, so that the plane’s center of gravity is proper. Recently this practice led to a dustup when an overweight passenger was asked to move to the back of the plane to balance the load.

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Rescued

God, I love dogs. That’s why recently I started volunteering at a facility where dogs from the very worst conditions around the world are brought for rehab and prep for adoption. It’s run by the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), and it’s in a warehouse at a Maryland address not widely known, as it’s not for public consumption. That’s for good reason: These are often the roughest of the rough, animals at death’s door, dogs that have been hoarded, chained up and abandoned, forced to fight, or nabbed and caged to be sold at meat markets. If they get rescued and shipped from wherever to this place to start anew, they are incredibly lucky.

I fantasized when signing on for this gig that I’d sweep into this warehouse of tragic histories and dog-whisper my way into the animals’ hearts, gently stroking away their fears and filling them with love. No matter how poorly a human treated them before, I’d teach them that people aren’t all bad, and that it was all going to be okay. How rewarding that would be!

In fact, not only is there no hugging and kissing the pups, and no rubbing their bellies and scratching their ears, there is no squatting down to sweet talk them nor even reaching out a hand to be sniffed. I’m really not supposed to touch the dogs at all. It kills me.

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Dog Smart: An Interview with Jennifer S. Holland

I first met Our Jenny in 2010 (I think?), when I walked into her office at National Geographic to buy a lizard. It’s a cute story; we’ll tell it some other time. For now, all you need to know is that the reptile sale turned into a friendship, and then a collaboration, as I helped Jenny with research for some of the books in her bestselling Unlikely Friendships series. Her latest book, Dog Smart: Life-Changing Lessons in Canine Intelligence, is out this month, and I can’t wait for you to hear about it.

A book cover featuring closeup photos of twelve different dogs. The book title is "DOG SMART: Life-Changing Lessons in Animal Intelligence." The author is Jennifer S. Holland.

KH: So, the Unlikely Friendships books were structured around anecdotes and photographs, but Dog Smart takes a sciency-er (to use the technical term) approach.  What was it like making that shift?

JH: It’s hard! Really hard. My brain works in little chunks. I originally started out [at National Geographic] writing photo legends for the magazine, and my other books were made of short stories I could work on one at a time without thinking about the narrative thread or how to tie it all together. This required a lot more brainpower, and more discipline. It was a really good challenge. It forced me to work differently and to keep asking myself, “Why am I writing this part? What is it really about? And how does it fit in the bigger picture?”

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My Mom on the Bering Land Bridge

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This is a picture of my mother sheltering from an Arctic wind from when this post first published in 2015. She’s nearing 80 now and I just connected with her last night in southern Utah where she’s joining me for a week on the San Juan River. She teeters more than she used to, not as fast on the scramble wearing a pack, and I’m glad to be going back out with her into the wild. With Mother’s Day coming up, I want to honor her tenacity and her hunger for raw experiences.

I held her cold hands in mine, rubbing warmth into them as she crouched behind a rock stack. A wet, July wind was blowing in off the Bering Sea and we’d taken shelter in a hunting blind on a treeless cape of St. Lawrence Island, Alaska. A couple weeks before this trip, I’d asked her if she wanted to come with me to an island 3 degrees below the Arctic circle between the coasts of Siberia and Western Alaska. Without hesitation, she’d said yes. I told her I didn’t know where we were going to stay, landing in a Yup’ik subsistence village with no infrastructure for travelers. She still said yes, not a pause to think about it.

This is what is like to be a traveling writer’s mom, and to be an adventurer’s son.

A scrappy, short animal of a woman, my mom is missing half of two fingers on one hand and a small portion of a third. It was a table saw accident. She used to make a living building furniture, sometimes working too late at night. I rubbed her bony, rough hands just like I did when I was a kid and we’d be on the snowbound side of a mountain in a howling wind, tears welling in her eyes from how cold her fingers would get. Continue reading

Color Theories

This post first ran in April 2019. As I get ready to go on maternity leave, I’m struck by how many things, large and small, had to go right for the tentative desires I felt five years ago — for a garden, and maybe even a family — to materialize. It’s been a messy and chaotic period, full of setbacks and delays, wildfires and plagues. But on this day in early May of 2024, I can see rows of lettuce and kale and snapdragons and native wildflowers out my kitchen window, and even a Cecile Bruner climbing rose, as yet uneaten by the deer or aphids. And yes, summer is coming, and with it, a baby. But I’m less afraid of summers (and babies) than I used to be.

Summer is coming. In a few months the foothills surrounding my home will turn blonde, then grey. Streams will dwindle, then peter out. After fire season begins, everything will be covered in ash.

That’s the reality of summer in the Sierra Nevada foothills these days. But right now it’s spring, and what a spring. The mountains are loaded with snow and the rivers are running high. It looks like someone scribbled on the hills with a neon green highlighter. And the flowers, oh the flowers are as good as they get, entire hillsides glazed with golden poppies and shooting stars.

I celebrated the spring bounty last weekend by taking a painting class from an artist named Andie Thrams. Andie’s densely layered watercolors have always felt like home to me, probably because she works not far from the house where I grew up. Her work captures ecological niches in exquisite detail, spanning from the tangled grey pine forests of the Sierra Nevada to the coastal rainforests of Alaska.

For me, Andie’s paintings evoke the smell of pine sap, the feeling of running my fingers along smooth madrone bark and pressing my nose to wet moss. When I lived far away, just looking at Andie’s paintings made me homesick. So when I saw that she was offering a painting workshop, I signed up.

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Bloom Where You’re Planted

On May Day, my brother and I used to sneak around our neighborhood with our mom, secretly delivering flowers to unsuspecting neighbors. Here are some May Day flowers for you.

In spring 2020, I wasn’t sure how to use Instagram. I mean, I technically knew how to use it. When I logged on, it was honestly keeping me going each day, watching everyone try to figure out what to do at home and seeing that they were just as uncertain as I was. People made sourdough bread, they knitted, they drew rainbows and put them on their windows, they banged pots and pans. But when it came to responding in kind, I wasn’t sure what to do.

Then one of my plants started to grow.

The best way to describe the way I garden is salutary neglect. This phrase, it seems, came from the British loosening their enforcement of trade relations with the colonies in the early 1700s. I have no enforcement whatsoever. I love to buy seed packets and new, hopeful plant starts, and plant them in the garden. I tend them in the first few days, but then something always comes up. (Perhaps not unlike the British—according to the Encyclopedia Britannica, some historians think it would have been impossible for the British to enforce trade across spread-out colonies, others say “a greater cause of salutary neglect was not deliberate but was instead the incompetence, weakness, and self-interest of poorly qualified colonial officials.” Gardening incompetence, weakness and self-interest, that’s me!)

So seeing a thriving plant is always a pleasant surprise. This one started as a low-growing spiky thing, and had stayed that way for a year.  In March 2020, it started shooting up toward the sun.

The plant was an echium, a biennial plant which shoots out a flower spike during its second year. These species—there are six of them—are native to the Canary Islands and parts of the west coast of Africa and the Iberian Peninsula. This one, called Echium wildpretti is known for its size—its flower tower can grow up to seven feet.

So I started taking photos of it. And there was much more drama than I thought. In a rainstorm, the spike fell over. A few days later, the tip started to lift skyward again. (Personal drama: I wrote and deleted several penis-themed captions while giggling to myself.) Huge buds grew in a spiral around the spike. Pink flowers appeared, and then an underlayer of purple. The echium toppled over again, and again, it reoriented toward the sun.

This is the kind of drama I would not have noticed otherwise. But in taking photos of E. wildpretti each day, I could see the small changes. I started looking forward to what would happen next, even when there wasn’t much else to look forward to.

Finally, the tower faded. By then we’d fallen into something of a rhythm at home, or at least something that felt less desperate. Elsewhere in the garden, a few small apricots appeared, and then a surfeit of figs. Sunflowers and pumpkins, then the dump of seed pods from the elm that signals the start of fall.

And now it’s spring again. Because of my incompetence and weakness, I could not remember what year I planted the next set of echium starts. Would I have to wait another year to see a bloom? Then about a week ago, an unassuming plant in the shade started growing upward instead of out. Now it is up above my knees, reaching toward the light.